“You don’t see a lot of 50-year-old nightclub owners, do you?” Mr. Sevigny.

“Perhaps not, though repeated visits to Kenmare over the course of the spring and early summer revealed no restaurateurs, either, of any age.” -Sam Sifton, New York Times Restaurant Critic.

Kitty Bawler’s Favorite excerpts from Sam Sifton’s Kenmare review.  (Rating: FAIR)  READ: GOOSE EGG.

-PAY no attention to the vast basement lounge beneath the dining room at Kenmare, with its leather banquettes and cool, mottled plaster walls, its built-in D.J. booth and low lighting, its long hallway of mirror-lined restrooms quite the right size to fit a couple of consenting adults. That’s for later. That’s for special.

-He (Joey Campanaro) is acclaimed in press reports as Kenmare’s chef. Here’s hoping he is well paid for that. Mr. Campanaro is a serious and excellent cook. Kenmare is unlikely to enhance his reputation.

-It is crowded nightly, first with dinner parties that seem pulled from rejected “Sex and the City” scripts and then with a late, late, late show of models and people with incredible collections of music and sneakers and phone numbers, accompanied by the people who went to college with them who now work on Wall Street.

-But the food is inconsequential.

-and a weirdly tasteless Midwestern-style broccoli-beer soup with cheese and bacon croutons. It is difficult to imagine denizens of any precinct of New York’s night-life world eating these..

-Eventually a busboy took pity. “You didn’t like them?” he asked, wondering if he should clear the glasses. Headshakes and laughter. “I am sorry,” he said, taking the full drinks off the table with care. That was $24 right there.

-And recalling the television program “Jersey Shore,” there was a dish called The Chicken — a sautéed chicken breast served over escarole and butter beans, with a moist, acrid, smoked chicken-leg confit. Maintaining consistency, it was almost too salty to eat.

-Not that many people are actually eating, though. There are enough pretty young things and the people who chase them at Kenmare to recall Bret Easton Ellis novels, Scissor Sisters songs and the whole first season of HBO’s “How to Make it in America.”

-It is a place to get fries and sliders, followed by a sugar rush, a place to drink vodka while waiting on a text. It’s like 11 p.m. You want to meet downstairs at Kenmare and do whatever?